Original
[Opera dell’arte del cucinare, Bartolomeo Scappi]; Per far mortatelle di carne magra di cigotto di porco domesticon in volto nella rete.
CIII. Piglinosi diece libre della soprascritta carne priva dossa, pelle, & nervi, la quale habbia del grasso, & magro, & battasi con li coltelli sopra la tavola, giungendovi otto oncie di sale trito, & sei oncie di finocchio dolce secco, quattro oncie di pepe ammaccato, un oncia di cannella pesta, meza oncia di garofani pesti, & sia ben mescolta insieme ogni cosa con la mano, & giunganovisi quattro oncie di acqua fredda, & menta, & maiorana battutat con un poco di serpillo, & lascisi riposare in un vaso di terra o di legno per quattro hore in loco fresco, & piglisi la rete desso porco ben netta di peli, & mollificata con acqua tepida, & faccianosi di tal compositione le mortatelle con la rete a foggia di tommacelle, & fatte che saranno lascinosi riposare il verno per due giorni in loco asciutto, & poi si cuocano su la graticola, overo nella padella con lo strutto liquefatto. Si protebbeno anco cuocere le tommacelle nello spedo tramezate con foglie di lauro, & le mortatelle si potrebbeno inspedare per lungo circondata di rame di rosmarino. Ma in qualunque modo sian cotte, vogliono esser servite calde. Della detta compositione si potrebbeno empir budelle di porco, che primo fossero state in sale, et piene che fossero il verno si potrebbeno lasciar stare per due giorni, & dapoi si potrebbeno alessare. Della detta carne magra dapoi che sar ben battuta si potranno anco far cervellate cn la rete, over in budelle, ponendo per ogni quantita di x. libre della dtta carne una libra et meza di cascio Parmeggiano grattato, et un oncia & meza di cannella pesta, un altra oncia & meza di pepe pesto, un ottava di zafferano, mezo bicchiero di acqua fresca, e tre oncie di sale; et come sar mescolata ogni cosa insieme si faranno le dette cervellate con la rete, overo in budelle, et si cuoceranno nel soprascritto modo; se ne potrebbeno ancho far tommacelle in rete, giungendovi otto oncie di uva passa, et otto rossi duova, et le dette tommacelle il verno saranno molto migliori se saranno fatte di due giorni. Delle mortatelle et altri salami che si fanno della detta carne non ne parlo, percioche non mai stato mia professione.
[Opera dell’arte del cucinare, Bartolomeo Scappi; Louise Smithson (trans.)]; To make mortatelle (sausages) of lean meat of boar or domestic pig wrapped in casing
CIII Take 10lbs of the above written meat without bones, skin and nerves, that which has both fat and lean. Beat with a knife on the table, and add eight ounces of cut salt, and six ounces of sweet dried fennel, four ounces of pepper coarsely ground, one ounce of cinnamon ground, half an ounce of ground cloves and mix everything together well with the hands. Add four ounces of water and mint and marjoram chopped with a little thyme. Leave to rest in a wooden or ceramic pot for four hours in a cold place. Take the casing of this pig well washed of skin and soaked in warm water, and make of this mixture the mortatelle with the caul in the way one makes tomacelle. And during the winter let them rest two days in a dry place, then one cooks them on the grill or in a frying pan with liquid lard. One can also cook them on the spit between bay leaves, and the mortatelle may also be spitted along the length of sticks of rosemary. But in whatever way they are cooked, you want to serve them warm. Of the same mixture you can fill guts of pig, that first are cured in salt, and when they are full in winter you can let them sit for two days and then they must be boiled. Of the said meat lean, that has been well beaten you can also make cervellate with the caul or the guts, take for every ten pounds of the said meat one and a half pounds of grated parmeggiano, and one and a half ounces of ground cinnamon, another ounce and a half of peppper ground, an eighth of saffron, half a beker of cold water and three ounces of salt, and as it is mixed everything together one makes the said cervellatte with the caul or with the guts and one cooks in the above mentioned way. If one also wants to make tomacelle in the caul, add eight ounces of currants (dried grapes) and eight egg yolks, and the said tomacelle in winter are much better two days after being made. Of the mortatelle and other salami that one makes from the said meat I will not talk as it has never been my job/profession.
My Recreation
5 lbs of Pork Loin
1/2 lb of Bacon
3 tbsp salt
4 tbsp fennel seeds
3 tbsp black pepper, ground
2 tsp cinnamon, ground
1 tsp clove, ground
1 cup boiling water
1 bunch fresh mint (.66 oz package)
1 bunch fresh marjarom(.66 oz package)
4 springs springs of fresh thyme
- Pour the boiling water into a heat proof non-reactive container (I used heat resistant glass) and add the fresh herbs
- When the “tea” reaches room temperature, remove the herbs and set the tea to the side
- Grind the pork and bacon on the largest die
- Combine the salt, fennel, pepper, cinnamon, and clove
- Add the spices and mix well to distribute them through the meat; this step works best done with your hands.
- Once combined, add the tea
- Mix again
- Cover and refrigerate overnight
- Form into balls (I use a 2 tbsp scoop) and bake at 375 F for 18 minutes.
*Notes
The recipe in Scappi is meant to be a preserved sausage, and I was planning on serving it as fresh. I also planned of serving it in meatball form, and not stuffing into a casing. So I cut down on the salt, and I used the proportions of spices in the recipe but not the quantity. The pork that was on sale was whole loins, which are less fatty than pork butt, and I have a little bacon left over from the bratwurst, so I added it to this sausage.
I also fried a test patty of the mixture without the tea, then after the tea was added. The herbs from the tea make a big difference.
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